10 Tips On Good Cooking

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1. Cut down cooking time: Fish ought to be slightly pink at the backbone, string beans a bit crunchy in the mouth while brown-fleshed fowl, sea food, roasted game and veal all win from not having been around too long in pots and pans. The Chinese have practiced this me­thod for a very long time.

2. Avoid complicated preparations: Jellied crayfish a la Parisienne with all sorts of mayonnaise is less tasty in the long run than crayfish in a simple oil and vinegar dressing.

3. Priority to fresh market food: It is best to draw up the menu in keeping with the freshest and most appe­tizing products to be found on the market that very morning.

4. Stop the practice of hanging game or marinading dishes: The new chefs no longer serve "high" dishes, game being settled but fresh, and have done away with spices that only too often disguise the taste of doubt­ful fermentations.

5. Accent on reduced menus: Restaurants which offer the customer a huge menu are compelled to keep a lot of things in stock. Fresh food tends to suffer from long

6. Lighter sauces: The heavy sauces like bechanel, Grand Veneur and Mornay, so time consuming to make and so rough on the liver, have been banished for good as have gratins, that some cooks relied upon to disguise the less than fresh taste of some fish.

7. Honor the regional dish: The simple and filling re­gional dishes "like mother made them" have come back into vogue.

8. Master all the techniques: The new chef must know how to use the most modern equipment — and when not to. Examples: Paul Bocuse will prepare a tasty fish cooked in its own juice in a micro-wave oven while the Troisgros brothers will cut their delicious string beans one by one and lengthwise by hand.

9. Light and diet-conscious food: A real turning point in the history of French cooking came with the dis­covery of strangely-matched salads and the advent of fresh vegetables and sauces without fatty matter.

10. Invention: Gault and Millau have had the last word on this essential rule. "Yes, they invent," the two wrote. "They have turned their backs on routine. Every­thing goes. If mashed carrots do not work out well with andouillette they try lentils or broccoli. They are not frightened of serving raw fish, and will take a chance with condiments and exotic recipes. They have rehabilitated simple things like cod, goose, tunafish, and boiled eggs which Manicre of the Pactole serves with

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